By Order of the Peaky Blinders: How Costume Design Defines the Legend in ‘The Immortal Man’
BIRMINGHAM — As the smoke clears and the cameras begin to roll on The Immortal Man, the highly anticipated Netflix feature film continuing the Peaky Blinders saga, one thing remains certain: Thomas Shelby may be a man of many faces—politician, businessman, soldier, and gangster—but he is nothing without his cap.
The Return of an Icon
Oscar winner Cillian Murphy returns to his career-defining role as Tommy Shelby, but he isn’t the only veteran returning to the set. Costume designer Alison McCosh, the visionary behind the show’s distinct aesthetic in its later seasons, is once again tasked with dressing the Shelby clan. In the upcoming film, the wardrobe does more than just clothe the characters; it serves as a visual bridge between the gritty streets of post-WWI Birmingham and the looming shadow of the Second World War.
“The clothes are his armor,” McCosh explains. For Tommy Shelby, every stitch is intentional. As he has risen from a bookmaker to a Member of Parliament, his suits have become more refined, shifting from heavy, textured tweeds to sophisticated wools and silks. Yet, even as he moves through the halls of power, the silhouette remains unmistakably “Peaky.”
The Crown of Birmingham: More Than Just a Hat
The centerpiece of the production’s design remains the iconic baker boy cap. While the show famously integrated razor blades into the peaks of the caps, the headwear has evolved into a symbol of authority. In The Immortal Man, the cap continues to act as a crown for the “King” of the Small Heath underworld.
According to the production team, the process of selecting the right cap is exhaustive. It isn’t simply about style; it’s about the “lived-in” feel. Each cap is aged and weathered to ensure it looks as though it has survived the soot of the factories and the blood of the battlefield. For Murphy, putting on the cap is the final step in transforming into Tommy Shelby, providing the character with a sense of anonymity and menace that has captivated global audiences for over a decade.
Sartorial Storytelling in a New Era
Set against a changing historical landscape, The Immortal Man promises to push the boundaries of the show’s established look. The film explores a period of transition where the classic 1920s gangster aesthetic meets the more structured, somber tones of the late 1930s. This shift allows the design team to play with broader shoulders and darker palettes, reflecting Tommy’s internal struggle and the darkening political climate of Europe.
McCosh and her team have meticulously sourced authentic fabrics to maintain the “hyper-real” feel of the Peaky Blinders universe. The goal is to ensure that while the film looks cinematic and grand, it never loses the tactile, gritty reality that made the original BBC series a fashion phenomenon.
A Global Fashion Legacy
The influence of Peaky Blinders costume design has long extended beyond the screen, sparking a worldwide resurgence in heritage menswear. From the rise of the “undercut” hairstyle to the renewed popularity of three-piece tweed suits, the “Peaky look” has become a staple of modern masculine style.
As The Immortal Man nears completion, the stakes for the wardrobe department are higher than ever. In a world where Tommy Shelby is increasingly isolated, his clothes are the only thing he can truly control. As the title suggests, the man may be immortal, but it is the cap—and the legend it represents—that truly lives forever.
The Immortal Man is scheduled to stream exclusively on Netflix. An official release date has yet to be announced.